Cleaning guide
Washing your car with a high-pressure hose nozzle
A concentrated jet is brilliant for wheels, arches and caked mud, and it should never come close to your paintwork. Get that distinction right and you get a faster wash with less swirl than a sponge-and-bucket routine.

Why pre-rinsing matters more than scrubbing
Almost all car wash scratching comes from dragging grit across paint with a wash mitt. The single most effective thing you can do for your paint is remove as much grit as possible before anything physically touches the panel. That is exactly what a strong rinse does: it floats the abrasive material off the surface so the wash stage is about removing film rather than sanding your clear coat with road dust.
The one rule for paint
Concentrated jet for wheels, arches, mud and the underside. Wide fan head at 30cm or more for every painted panel, glass and trim. Never point a close jet at a stone chip, a paint edge, a badge or a rubber seal.
Distances and settings by area of the car
| Area | Head | Distance | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alloy wheels and tyres | Jet | 15–20cm | Brake dust bonds to the finish |
| Wheel arches and sills | Jet | 20cm | Compacted mud and road salt |
| Underside and towbar | Jet | 20–30cm | Rinses corrosive grit away |
| Painted panels | Fan | 30cm+ | Protects clear coat and existing wax |
| Glass and mirrors | Fan | 30cm | Avoids forcing water past seals |
| Engine bay | Fan, brief | 40cm+ | Never near fuse boxes or connectors |
| Soft-top and canvas | Fan | 50cm+ | Water ingress risk |
| Bull bar, roof racks, floor mats | Jet | 15cm | Nothing delicate to damage |
The wash routine, in order
- Park in the shade. Washing hot panels in direct sun leaves water spots that are harder to remove than the dirt was.
- Wheels first, with the jet head. Do them before the body so brake dust never lands on clean paint.
- Rinse the whole car top down with the fan head at 30cm, letting the water sheet the loose grit away.
- Attack the arches, sills and lower quarters with the jet — that's where the heavy grime lives.
- Wash the panels with two buckets and a clean mitt: one bucket of soapy water, one to rinse the mitt.
- Final rinse with the fan head, again top down, and finish by flooding the panels with a gentle open flow so water sheets off rather than beading into spots.
- Dry with a clean microfibre or a drying towel — do not let it air-dry if you have hard water.

4WDs, utes and boats after a trip away
Post-trip cleaning is where a concentrated jet earns its keep. Dried clay in the arches, sand in the tray, salt on the underside after a beach run — all of it needs volume and reach, not detergent. Work the underside and arches thoroughly before touching the body, and pay attention to the towbar, the rear of the tray and the radiator area, where corrosive material collects out of sight.
For caravans and boats, treat the sides like paintwork: fan head, comfortable distance, top down. Use the jet only on wheels, rollers, trailer frames and the hull below the waterline where marine growth sits.
Water restrictions and washing at home
Most Australian water authorities allow vehicle washing at home with a trigger-controlled nozzle, and some restrict washing hard surfaces separately. Rules differ by state and change with conditions, so check your local authority's current position before you start. A nozzle that shuts off between passes is exactly what those rules are written around.
Things that quietly damage cars
- Close-range jetting on paint, badges, decals or window seals.
- Washing in direct sun on hot panels.
- Using the same mitt on wheels and paint.
- Blasting into the engine bay near connectors and fuse boxes.
- Letting a car with hard water air-dry instead of drying it.
- Aiming at a stone chip — water will get under the edge and lift more paint.
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